FILM PRODUCTION - From the heart of the Andes

In September 2006 four alpinists from club Edelweiss, visit Cordillera Blanca in Peru, South America.

The goal of the expedition was the climbing of Alpamayo Peak – 5947 meters a.s.l.  During the visit in the Inca’s country was made a documentary movie about the adventures of the Bulgarians in that part of the world.

Cordillera Blanca is part of a mountain chain in the South Americas Andes.   The glaciers over the pointing peaks gave the name of the mountain, with means “The White Mountain”.  

The team of the expedition were from four members – alpinists: Martin Marovski, Zhecho Zhechev, Yanka Hristova and Hristo Hristov. Three of the mountain peaks were climbed up. On the highest point of Alpamayo, after a risky climbing, managed to step Marto, Zhecho and Yana. The other two peaks Baunaraho and Ishinca – were climbed up respectively by Marto, Zhecho and Itso, Yana and Marto.

The movie “From the Heart of the Andes" has telecasted on RING TV since November 2006. The movie covers the route of the expedition.

Pictures top line:

“The call of the mountain” – Zhecho is coming down from the assault camp at Alpamayo, after the first attempt to conquer the peak. The increased danger of avalanches is the reason not to make any new attempts for climbing the wall, for one week.

“From the heart of the Andes” – That is how the mountain looks like from the glacial form of Alpamayo. The picture is taken by Marto, while he was securing his partners in climbing.

“The Triumph” – the leader of the liaison Martin Marovski at 5947 meter a.s.l..  This is the highest point of Alpamayo.

Pictures second line:

“The Wall” – the ice fall is approximately 60 degrees.  The climbing would have been really easy if the above sea-level was the same as Rila’s. Three kilometers further up each step is a straggle with the feeling for less oxygen and the more intensive height.

“The Route” – the Bulgarians route follows the Ferrari route, climbed up for a first time by Italian alpinists in the middle of the last century. With a proper acclimatization, the climbing went without any significant problems.  The main danger from avalanches is in the bottom of the wall and the overhanging seracs on the peaks ridge of Alpamayo. In the eve of our millennium, the fall of an ice block from the top part of the route, caused a massive slide and the death of 9 alpinists.  Anyone, who is climbing on this wall, should keep that in mind!

“The way to the assault camp” – the base camp, situated on a green lawn is 800 meters below the assault camp. To reach the base of Alpamayo, you have to climb up the vertical part of the glacier, where is recommendable to use safety lines and ice screws.

Pictures - third line:

 “On the set” – Yanka Hristova and RING TV camera among the peaks of the Andes.

 “Descent to Bulgaria” – last rappel before getting to level ground and the plane to the Old Continent. 

 “A dream beyond the valleys” – Hristo Hristov on Ishinca Peak. After a severe AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) Itso joins the last stage of the expedition. This peak can be climbed up with an ice axe from the one side and you can slide down on ski from the other side. As long as you don’t fall in some of the glacier’s crevasses.

 

film episode from the Andes